The Great Immigrant Road Trip

Fusion is not new in the restaurant world. Even though Chef Edward Lee fears it has become a culinary gimmick, he knows the concept had profound meaning when it originated in a restaurant in Florida under the gaze of one of his heroes, Norman Van Aken. Real fusion is attuned to the everyday cooking of families who set roots in a new country and harmonize immigrant traditions with local cuisine. These are the types of recipes, restaurants, chefs, and families that Lee searched for from the nationalities sprawled across American cities when writing his book Buttermilk Graffiti: A Chef’s Journey to Discover America’s New Melting-Pot Cuisine. He found himself in cities where “there is nothing about this place that screams ‘culinary paradise’ ” and stumbled upon diners and cafes that “will never make it to the top of a Zagat list” (57); yet these were the places he found made-from-the-heart, cultural cuisine that surprised him into falling in love with unique dishes. Whenever Lee has clam pizza in Connecticut he contemplates “the slow and gradual interconnection of two cultures, in this case, Italian and New England.” He further writes, “When you look at the evolution of American cuisine, you always find this tension between tradition and innovation, a tension that produces the foods we crave most. It is in the intersection of the home we leave and the home we adopt that we find a dish that defines who we really are.” Read more

Rustle Up Some Grubs

When it comes to using insects as food, a cry of “Bring on the delicacies” comes from certain cultures, whereas others need to be near-to-death starving before considering bugs for dinner. Two recent books, Edible: An Adventure into the World of Eating Insects and the Last Great Hope to Save the Planet by Daniella Martin and Eat the Beetles! An Exploration into our Conflicted Relationship with Insects by David Waltner-Toews, have taken steps beyond these polarizing camps by arguing that entomophagy (the eating of insects) has a lot going for it: a plentiful wild supply, far less resources required to farm them, no butchering involved, and high nutritional value.   Read more

Give Peas a Chance

It is not surprising that romantic unions occur over a common love of certain food, as dictated by the adage that the way to one’s heart can be through the stomach. It is far less often you will see a couple bonding over a meal liked by one individual but not by the other, but these incompatibilities are still capable of providing insight to how relationships work. It was definitely not my culinary skills that urged my wife to enter into holy matrimony with me, but it was my cooking during our courtship that taught us both some relationship lessons. Read more

All Hail Caesar!

Falling on the third Thursday in May, National Caesar Day kicks off the May 2-4 long weekend. For Canadians, this is the unofficial beginning of summer and the Caesar has become our most beloved and patriotic cocktail. Canadian restaurant manager Walter Chell is credited for inventing the Caesar at an Italian restaurant in Calgary in 1969. By mimicking the flavours of an Italian dish, spaghetti vongole, he mixed his own clam broth and tomato juice to create this uniquely Canadian elixir. Shortly after, as it quickly became a favourite national drink, Mott’s came out with the bottled version of their Clamato cocktail for easier mixing of Caesars at home and in bars. And the rest is history. Read more

Historic Mixology

If David Wondrich had not already won a James Beard Award for Wine & Spirits writing, his book could be nominated for a fake prize in the Longest Title category with its full title being Imbibe! From Absinthe Cocktail to Whiskey Smash, a Salute in Stories and Drinks to “Professor” Jerry Thomas, Pioneer of the American Bar, Featuring the Original Formulae for 100 Classic American Drinks and a Selection of New Drinks Contributed in his Honor by the Leading Mixologists of our Time. For our reading and drinking pleasure, Wondrich plays the role of cocktail history authority by paying tribute to the old school style of mixology by bringing to light the contributions of notable barman, Jerry Thomas (1830­–1885). Between the American Revolution and Prohibition (1783–1920), mixing drinks became “the first legitimate American culinary art” and Thomas was in the thick of it. Near the middle of this timeframe, around 1856, the term “mixologist” started being used to describe bartenders who were experimenting with new concoction. Shortly after that in 1862, Thomas started to document these recipes and is credited for writing the world’s first bartending guide, How to Mix Drinks, or the Bon Vivant’s Companion. Read more

Jump and Jive

If you found yourself, as I did with my wife and two boys, at the Downtown Chatham Centre on the Saturday before Family Day in February, you may have come across a lot of jigging, jumping, and jiving going on. In the mall’s food court, directly outside the entrance of Ella Minnow Pea toy store, there were two free concerts at 12:00 and 2:00 starring the energetic trio of characters from the CBC show JiggiJump. Chatham was lucky enough to be part of the JiggiJump Sport and Fitness Fest during a mall tour throughout Ontario. The male and female stars of the show, David and Judy, along with their colourful kangaroo friend, JJ, put on an interactive show of musical adventures that get kids moving. JiggiJump is a fitness movement for children that started out as live presentations in schools in 2006 before becoming a television series on CBC in 2013. In a promotional video on Youtube, Judy explains the program by saying, “JiggiJump gets kids to be active in a very simple way. It just uses play and it’s fueled by imagination and by really fun music.” Read more

Moving our Imaginations with Music

Some big name children’s entertainers came to Chatham’s Capitol Theatre in November. Big name, that is, if you’re like me and have spent way too much time with the Disney Junior channel on television (only between bouts of Treehouse, of course, while secretly wishing it was TSN or The Food Network). I’m happy to say these performers are real people, too; they aren’t puppets, or animated characters brought to life with costumes, or puffy purple dinosaurs. They are a four-man musical troupe – Rich, Dave, Scott, and Smitty – known as The Imagination Movers. They play instruments and sing upbeat songs, scattered between comedic skits that encourage children to solve problems by exercising their imaginations. Not that there’s anything wrong with these other forms of non-real entertainment, but as a father, I take personal satisfaction in seeing my children’s role models graduating to characters that are flesh and blood, after the last few years of admiring Elmo. I admit, I like Yoda and Chewbacca from Star Wars, but Han Solo and Luke Skywalker are who I aspire to be. Read more

Savouring and Celebrating the CK Table

Picture an outdoor dinner party, surrounded by the fields of a local farm, featuring food that was grown or raised within relatively close proximity, or – as the farmers might say – within spitting distance. The local residents eating the meal can pinpoint on a map of their municipality where the food came from. During the meal, the diners mingle with the farmers who supplied the food and cooked it on site with their own hands. It just doesn’t get more local or more delicious. Read more

A Harvest of Canadian Food Writing

With the autumn harvest of regional foods behind us and the fresh sprouting of spring gardens still months away, it’s time to embark on a harvest of a different sort – the culling of good Canadian food writing to sustain a restless mind through the winter months. Or, if you find yourself in the throes of Christmas preparations, this list could help alleviate the gift-buying anxiety for any of those patriotic foodies in your life. Read more

Sensual Eating

We all know certain foods taste wonderful, but we rarely take the time to consider why they taste this way – the saltiness of your favourite potato chip, the spicy tingle of a curry, or the pleasant bitterness of coffee. Not to mention the flip side of the flavour equation and those foods we can’t stand to cross our tongues. Good or bad – that’s where science comes in. In her book, Taste What You’re Missing: The Passionate Eater’s Guide to Why Good Food Tastes Good, a professional food developer, Barb Stuckey, demystifies the science behind our food and makes gastronomic chemistry accessible to non-scientific-minded people who are just looking to eat good food. Read more